吃嗎?大規模生產的人造肉和人造海鮮能否打開全球市場
“為了吃雞胸或雞翅而養一整只雞?我們要在合適的條件下分開養這些部位。” 盡管人造肉產業未來發展潛力巨大,但仍有許多問題與挑戰亟待解決,首先是公眾認知,其次是價格,人造肉走向尋常百姓家還有很長一段路要走。
You Eat Meat From Factory Farms。 Why Not a Lab?
Amanda Little | Bloomberg

Soaring beef prices, a new E。 coli recall, and a recent swine fever outbreak have added to a growing pile of evidence that the grossly over-consolidated meat industry is in need of a new model。 This piece of our global food supply must be reformed – and thoroughly reimagined – before it becomes any more unreliable or environmentally costly。
不斷飆升的牛肉價格,新一次大腸桿菌召回事件,以及最近爆發的豬瘟疫情,這一切證據都表明,過度整合的肉類行業需要一種新的模式。我們必須對全球糧食供應的這一部分進行改革,而且是徹底的革新,以免它變得越來越不可靠或環境成本更高。
While plant-based substitutes have been gaining considerable marketshare over the past year, industrial meat and seafood will need a bigger savior than garden patties (or Tunato) that try to mimic the flavor and texture of the real thing。 We’ve got one good candidate in lab-grown meat — aka “cultured meat” or “cellular agriculture”— an emerging frontier that has enormous potential to become the foundation of a humane, climate-smart future protein supply。 雖然植物替代品在過去一年里獲得了相當大的市場份額,但工業肉類和海鮮將需要一個比試圖模仿真肉味道和質地的花園肉餅(或金槍魚)更大的救世主。 我們在實驗室培育的肉類中有一個很好的替代品——也就是“人造肉”或“細胞農業”——這是一個新興的前沿領域,有巨大的潛力能成為人道的、氣候環保型的未來蛋白質供應的基礎。
Though created in a vat, cultured products are indistinguishable from animal products on a cellular level, and as nutritious — without the environmental and moral burdens of raising animals to kill and eat。 But to actually succeed, cultured meat must overcome two major obstacles: pricing and consumer doubt。
雖然人造產品是在實驗室中制造的,但從細胞層面來講,它們與動物產品沒有什么區別,而且同樣有營養——更沒有飼養動物以供宰殺和食用所帶來的環境和道德的負擔。但要真正獲得成功,人造肉必須克服兩個主要的障礙:價格和消費者的疑慮。
Industry pioneers have shown extraordinary progress in recent years making their products technologically viable。 As conventional beef prices have risen, the production costs of cellular agriculture have been plunging, and the process is dramatically more efficient than breeding livestock。 A cultured beef product, for example, can be grown and ready for market within three weeks, compared with the 18 to 24 months it takes to raise a steer for slaughter。 Moreover, indoor lab facilities can be located near urban centers, localizing supplies and reducing the threat of disruption。
近年來,行業先驅取得了巨大的進步,技術上已經沒有障礙。隨著傳統牛肉價格的上漲,細胞農業的生產成本一直在下降,這一過程比飼養牲畜的效率要高得多。例如,人造牛肉產品可以在三周內長成并上市,而飼養一頭供屠宰的牛需要18到24個月。此外,室內實驗室設施可以位于城市中心附近,實現供應的本地化,并降低供應中斷的風險。
The category is growing fast。 Global investment in this new sector rose six-fold to $3.2 billion in 2020。 Startups have proliferated from about a dozen worldwide in 2017 to more than 100 today, drawing investors from billionaire Bill Gates to Tyson Foods Inc。 The first wave of lab-grown products could be hitting the U.S。 market by early next year。
這一行業目前增長迅猛。2020年,全球對這一新領域的投資增長了6倍,達到32億美元。創業公司從2017年的十多家激增到今天的100多家,吸引了億萬富翁比爾·蓋茨(Bill Gates)和泰森食品公司(Tyson Foods Inc。)進軍這一行業。實驗室培育的第一波產品可能會在明年初進入美國市場。
Prices, which are sky-high now, will eventually become more affordable as the industry scales up production。 So the biggest hurdle to long-term success will be getting the marketing right。
隨著生產規模的不斷擴大,目前高得離譜的價格也會變得越來越親民化。因此,從長遠來看,其成功的最大障礙將是營銷。
Consumers will trust and adopt cultured meat products only if industry leaders establish effective communication strategies from the get-go。 The average person right now has only the vaguest idea of what “lab meat” even is — and it sounds anything but delectable。 只有行業領導者從一開始就建立起有效的溝通策略,消費者才會信任并采納人造肉制品。目前,普通人對“實驗室的肉”究竟是什么只有最模糊的概念,而且聽起來一點也不美味。

Getting the Name Right
如何命名是門大學問 The industry should collectively agree to use a consistent and more appetizing nomenclature。 Right now, some companies are calling their products “cultivated” or “cell-based” meats, while others use the term “no-kill meats。” Industry pioneers would do well to jettison all that terminology in favor of something far simpler, like “clean meats。”
整個行業應該使用一致的、更有吸引力的宣傳術語。現在,一些公司將他們的產品稱為“培育”肉或“細胞”肉,而另一些公司則使用“非屠宰肉”這個術語。行業先驅最好拋棄所有這些術語,改用更簡單的詞,比如“清潔肉”。
At a time when consumers have already come to trust “clean energy,” cultured meats should be considered the protein equivalent。 There are conflicting estimates on the environmental benefits of clean meats, given that there are still so many unknowns (the energy demands, for example, will improve as production scales)。 But one study published in the Journal of Environmental Science and Technology found that cultured meat involves up to 40% less energy use, 99% lower land use, and about 85% lower greenhouse gas emissions as well as consuming 90% less water compared with meat conventionally farmed in Europe。
在消費者已經開始相信“清潔能源”的時候,人造肉應該被認為是蛋白質的等價物。考慮到仍有許多未知因素(例如,隨著生產規模的擴大,能源需求將會提高),關于清潔肉類的環境效益存在相互矛盾的預期。但發表在《環境科學與技術雜志》(Journal of Environmental Science and Technology)上的一項研究發現,與歐洲傳統養殖的肉類相比,人造肉可以減少高達40%的能源消耗,減少99%的土地使用,減少約85%的溫室氣體排放,同時減少90%的水消耗。
Cultured meats can also be clean from a human-health standpoint。 They‘re free of bacterial contamination such as E.coli from fecal matter, which routinely gets mixed into meats in slaughterhouses, and they’re potentially lower in cholesterol and saturated fats, the presence of which can be controlled as the meats are cultivated。 從人類健康的角度來看,人造肉也是非常清潔的。它們不受糞便中的大腸桿菌等細菌污染,而大腸桿菌通常會混入屠宰場的肉類中,而且它們的膽固醇和飽和脂肪含量可能更低,在肉類養殖過程中,這些脂肪的占比可以得到控制。
The better consumers understand the production process behind clean meats, the more they‘ll begin to trust these products。 Scientists have learned to grow any kind of protein, be it chicken or yellowtail fish or Wagyu beef, starting with a small sample of muscle and fat cells removed in a biopsy-like procedure from a live or recently dead animal。 The cells are given a controlled environment inside a vat, or bioreactor, to do what cells naturally do: replicate。 The bioreactor, is really just a sophisticated Crockpot in which cell cultures are fed the special brew of nutrients and oxygen they need to grow — the same nourishment given to living organisms。
消費者對清潔肉的生產過程了解得越透徹,他們就越相信這些產品。科學家們已經學會了培育任何一種蛋白質,無論是雞、黃尾魚還是日本和牛,都是從活的或最近死去的動物的一小部分肌肉和脂肪細胞樣本開始的。在大桶或生物反應器內,細胞在一個可控的環境下,做細胞自然做的事情:繁殖。生物反應器,實際上就是一個復雜的Crockpot(克羅克電鍋),細胞培養物會得到它們生長所需的特殊營養和氧氣——與生物有機體相同的營養。 In fact, this isn’t newfangled technology at all: Scientists have been growing animal tissues for decades for medical applications, such as life-saving heart valves。 And long before medical experts were doing this work, prominent public figures had recognized the inherent inefficiency of industrial live-animal farming for meat production。 Winston Churchill wrote in 1931: “We shall escape the absurdity of growing a whole chicken in order to eat the breast or wing, by growing these parts separately under a suitable medium。”
實際上,這并不是一項新技術:幾十年來,科學家們一直在培育動物組織用于醫學應用,比如拯救生命的心臟瓣膜。早在醫學專家開始這項工作之前,杰出的公眾人物就已經認識到,用于肉類生產的工業活畜養殖固有的低效率。溫斯頓·丘吉爾(Winston Churchill)在1931年寫道:“我們要避免為了吃雞胸或雞翅而養一整只雞的荒謬做法,我們要在合適的條件下分開養這些部位。”
Products will likely be featured on restaurant menus before they’re regularly available in grocery stores, a market with a steeper learning curve。 That’s been the strategy in Singapore, which became the first country to approve cultured meats for commercial sale in December。 San Francisco-based Eat Just Inc。 debuted its cell-based chicken dishes in a few restaurants at prices ranging from $17 to the low $20s。 Though apparently discounted considerably, that’s still higher than most people will be willing to pay for what amounts to chicken nuggets。 The priority right now is just to educate the consumer。
這些產品很可能會率先出現在餐廳的菜單上,然后才會在雜貨店上架,這需要一個過程。這就是新加坡的策略,去年12月,新加坡成為第一個批準人造肉類商業銷售的國家。位于舊金山的Eat Just Inc。在幾家餐廳首次推出了人造雞肉菜品,價格從17美元到20美元不等。雖然明顯打了很大折扣,但這仍然高于大多數人愿意為雞塊支付的價格。當務之急是提高消費者的認知。

Global Ambitions
開拓全球市場
The production of cultured seafoods, poultry and beef is already beginning to spread worldwide。 Eat Just recently raised $200 million to expand, and has been valued at $1.2 billion。 The startup Wildtype is now producing sushi-grade cultivated salmon at a pilot plant in San Francisco。 Singapore’s Shiok Meats is beginning to scale its lab-grown shrimp and crab production。 Israel’s Aleph Farms just raised $105 million to produce cultured beef, and Rehovot, Israel-based Future Meat Technologies recently opened a factory that will have the capacity to produce 1,100 pounds of cultured chicken, pork and lamb daily。
人造海產品、家禽和牛肉的生產已經開始在世界范圍內推廣。Eat Just最近籌集了2億美元用于擴張,目前估值為12億美元。初創公司Wildtype目前在舊金山的一家試驗工廠生產壽司用的人造三文魚。新加坡的Shiok Meats開始擴大人造蝦和蟹的生產規模。以色列的Aleph農場剛剛籌集了1.05億美元用于生產人造牛肉,而該國的未來肉類技術公司(Future Meat Technologies)最近在雷霍沃特(Rehovot)開設了一家工廠,每天可生產1100磅的人造雞肉、豬肉和羊肉。 In the coming months, Upside Foods (formerly Memphis Meats) is expected to open a large production facility in the San Francisco Bay Area。 Chief Executive Officer Uma Valeti has grown his company from two to 125 employees, raised more than $200 million in funding from investors including Whole Foods Market founder John Mackey, and brought down his cost of production substantially — by a factor of 1,000 — since 2015。 His company served me my first plate of lab meat in 2018: a delicately seasoned duck breast, pan-seared on a bed of radicchio with orange vinaigrette, harvested fresh from the bioreactor。 It tasted indistinguishable from meat because it is meat — just grown without the bones, organs, hide, feathers, hooves, and of course, the sentience。 Valeti told me recently his cultivated chicken could initially sell in the U.S。 at a price competitive with premium chicken products (about $10-$12 per entrée serving)。
在接下來的幾個月里,美國上行食品公司(上行食品公司的前身是Memphis Meats)預計將在舊金山灣區開設一家大型生產工廠。首席執行官Uma Valeti將他的公司從2名員工發展到125名員工,從包括Whole Foods Market創始人John Mackey在內的投資者那里籌集了超過2億美元的資金,自2015年以來,他的生產成本大幅降低了1000倍。2018年,他的公司給我端上了我的第一盤人造肉:精心調味的鴨胸肉,用平底鍋煎著,上面放著從生物反應器中新鮮收獲的菊苣和橙子醋汁。它嘗起來和肉沒什么區別,因為它就是肉——只是生長時沒有骨頭、器官、皮、羽毛、蹄,當然,也沒有感覺。Valeti最近告訴我,他培育的雞肉最初可以在美國以與優質雞肉產品競爭的價格出售(每盤小菜的價格約為10-12美元)。 No matter how needed, cellular agriculture will be doomed if it doesn’t get its messaging right。 Ultimately, industry leaders need to convince consumers that their products are not only clean and natural, they’re traditional more than science fiction。 Executives must communicate clearly to the marketplace that clean meats reimagine an old idea using new technology, and usher in a solution whose time has come。
無論多么需要,如果不能正確宣傳和了解,細胞農業將難逃厄運。最終,行業領導者需要說服消費者,他們的產品不僅是清潔和天然的,而且是傳統的,不是天馬行空的。高管們必須清楚地向市場傳達這樣的信息:清潔肉是穿新鞋走老路,并引入可行的方案讓公眾接受它。
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